Salamis sits on the east coast just north of Famagusta, in the territory of Northern Cyprus, and is one of the great archaeological sites of the eastern Mediterranean — a city that was the largest on Cyprus from the 11th century BC through the Byzantine period, founded by Teucer (according to legend) after the fall of Troy and continuously occupied for nearly 2,000 years. Earthquakes in the 4th and 7th centuries AD and the 7th-century Arab raids ended its life; sand and pine-scrub then preserved it.
The site is sprawling — you walk it for two hours and only see a fraction. The set-pieces are the Roman gymnasium and palaestra (a colonnaded courtyard with re-erected columns, marble floors and Roman headless statues lining the porticoes), the adjacent thermal baths with their hypocausts, the immense amphitheatre seating 15,000 (rebuilt under Augustus), the partially excavated agora (one of the largest in the Roman Mediterranean), and the early Christian basilicas including the Campanopetra. The east edge of the city runs straight onto a long empty sand beach.
What to do. Walk the marked routes; bring printed information or download the Northern Cyprus museums-and-monuments PDF before crossing — the on-site signage is limited. The gymnasium is the photogenic centre, the theatre the dramatic moment, the basilicas the quiet finds. Allow at least two hours, three if you also visit the nearby tomb of Saint Barnabas (5 min drive — a small monastery and museum on the legendary site of the apostle's grave).
Insider tips. Crossing into the north at the Pergamos or Strovilia checkpoints requires a passport and a green-card insurance extension if you have a hire car; many southern hire companies do not allow it. A taxi from Famagusta (10 min) avoids the issue. Bring water — the site has minimal facilities. Wear closed shoes; thistles and unexcavated rubble are real.
Combinations. Combine with Famagusta old town (the walled Lusignan-Ottoman city, 15 min south), with the tomb-monastery of Saint Barnabas, and with the long empty beach immediately east of the site for a swim.
Bring. Hat, water (1.5L), sunscreen, closed shoes, passport, euros and Turkish lira (small change for parking). When. March-May and October-November are ideal; avoid summer midday. Salamis rewards readers and walkers — it is huge, hot, and quiet, and the longer you stay the more it gives.